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One of the more common ways in which our partners feel pain (and no, not the fun kind) is responding to a takeout double having next to nothing and no good suit. Take the analgesic below and make a better call in the morning.
First, let's review the choices for what partner needs for his takeout double. In the following table, cross-reference the number of points with the hand pattern. If partner's actual holding falls outside the chart and he does issue a takeout double, get a new partner. Ugly Example: The L.O.L. Double.
For each of the example hands, we assume that your right-hand opponent is
the dealer and
has bid 1
.
See the examples in the left frame. Rules and example hands correspond by row letter.
| row | High-Card Points | Hand Pattern | Bid |
| a | 13 to 15 | 3 or 4 cards in every unbid suit, AND fewer than 3 in the enemy suit. | The One Bid Hand: Double and shut up thereafter unless partner cue bids. |
| b | 16 to 18 | 3 or 4 cards in every unbid suit, AND fewer than 3 in the enemy suit. | The Two Bid Hand: Double and raise partner (but only once); or double again if the intervening opponent takes partner off the hook and partner passes. |
| c | 19 to 21 | 3 or 4 cards in every unbid suit, AND fewer than 3 in the enemy suit. | The Three Bid Hand: Double and take 2 more calls (double and jump raise; two doubles and a raise; or three doubles) |
| d | 16 to 18 | any unbid six-card or longer suit | Double, then bid your suit once (if you can't raise partner's reply suit) |
| e | 19 to 21 | any unbid six-card or longer suit | Double and jump in your suit unless you can jump raise partner's reply suit. |
| f | 18 to 19 | balanced hand pattern and at least 1.5 stops in the enemy suit. | Double, then rebid the cheapest Notrump (and yes, 1NT is also not bad, especially if both opponents have bid and you think you'll only get one call). |
| g | 20 to 21 | balanced hand pattern and 1.5 stops in the enemy suit | Double, then single jump in Notrump; or double and jump raise partner's Notrump call. |
| h | 22+ | any | Double, then cue bid. Bid the enemy suit once (forcing, 1 round), then, in
priority order: 1. Return to partner's suit, or 2. Bid your own long suit, or 3. Bid NT when your hand pattern and stoppers demand it. |
Okay. Armed with the above, what do we do as the doubler's
partner? Some of the choices seem quite ugly; but as we say again and again, it
only hurts for a minute. Partner will clarify his double just two calls hence,
relieving your temporary discomfort. Here's the table for your first
response. In each of the following examples, we assume that your partner has
doubled dealer's 1
opener, and opener's partner has passed. Thus:
| West | North | East | South |
| 1 |
Double | Pass | ? |
| row | High-Card Points | Hand Pattern | Bid |
| A | ? | 5 or more tricks in the enemy suit and no strong unbid suit | Pass. This is the most aggressive call possible: a Penalty Pass |
| B | 0 to 9 | fewer than 5 tricks in the enemy suit | Mention your longest unbid suit at the cheapest level (and yes, this may mean a 3-card holding) |
| C | 10 to 12 | same as "B," different point range | Single jump in any unbid 4-card or longer suit (not forcing) |
| D | 13 and up | fewer than 5 tricks in the enemy suit | Cue Bid shows an opening hand. |
| With each of these opening hand equivalents (Type D), make the same call (game force) so that you and partner can take your time showing suit length, fits and NT stops without worrying that one of you may bail out short of game. Partner will likely limit his hand on his very next call, putting you in charge of the auction. Don't preempt yourself with unnecessary jump bids. This is the only response that forces partner to make another call with a minimum. | |||
| E | 7 to 9 | fewer than four cards in any unbid major, 1.5 stops in the enemy suit, AND a relatively balanced hand | 1 No Trump |
| F | 10 to 12 | same as E, different point range | 2 No Trump |
| If you are puzzled why the list contains no 3 No Trump bid, re-read Row "D" very slowly. | |||
No discussion of Takeout Doubles would be adequate without the mention of two other troubling hands: 1) The One Notrump Overcall and, 2) the Off-Shape Double.
1. Give priority to bidding 1NT when you hold a balanced hand, one-and-a-half stops or better in the enemy suit, and don't hold two unbid four-card majors.
K J 5
K 6 3 2
A Q
K 10 9 8
K J 10 5
K Q 6 3
A 4
K 9 8
Both of these hands qualify under the rubric of Row "b," but in a competitive auction, you may get only one chance to tell partner whatever he needs to know to get the partnership to the best spot. In addition you'd much rather have the opening diamond lead come toward hand one's diamond tenace rather than through it.
The latter hand clearly leans toward the majors and contains only one diamond stop, so double. Let's not make the defense too easy.
2. The Off-Shape Double.
Off-shape refers to the rule that one must have at least three cards in each of the unbid suits. Failing this, and having a minimal hand, you must silently bide your time.
A 5 3 2
8 7
A K 4
K 10 9 8
When you picked up this collection, you had your stomach all set for a takeout double, anticipating that your right-hand opponent would say one heart. To your consternation, she bids one club! (Damn those short club people.) Now what?
If you overcall in Notrump holding such a weak hand, or overall a questionable four-card major, you will never see this partner again (or worse, never hear the end of it). If you double, Murphy's Law tells us that partner will go leaping in hearts with an even worse result. And no, you cannot make a "correcting" call after your takeout double since partner will take you for a hand "d" type.
Solution: You must pass on the first round, then chime in on the second round if appropriate. On the next round, you have the option to double or defend in grumpy silence. On the hand just above, for example, the auction may go like this.
| East | South | West | North |
| 1 |
Pass | 1 |
Pass |
| 2 |
? |
Now, you do have support for the unbid suits, etc. and can say it with authority. Since that was so easy, let's make it a little harder.
| East | South | West | North |
| 1 |
Pass | 1 |
Pass |
| 1NT | ? |
Even if you do choose to double for takeout this time around (a high-risk proposition), partner was warned by your first pass that you are not fully supportive of the all of the unbid suits and he should know to exercise great caution.
Even this extensive list of guidelines is only half the story. Both the doubler and his partner have multiple options on subsequent rounds. That makes the list of choices too extensive for this column.
I recommend studying the chapters of Eddie Kantar's excellent book, Bridge Bidding Made Easy (Wilshire Press). It contains all the choices as well as excellent hand exercises to help you know whether you've mastered them.
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